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THIS IS AN END OF A LOG CUT IN NOVEMBER 2001 AND IS ABOUT 16 INCHES IN DIAMETER AND 10 FEET LONG AND VERY STRAIGHT.THE GROWTH RINGS ARE SOMEWHAT CLOSE BUT AS YOU CAN SEE THEY ARE VERY FLAT IN MANY OF THE AREAS AN OSAGE STAVE CAN BE REMOVED.THE LOG WAS STRAIGHT AND ALMOST LIMBLESS SO A NOT SO GOOD GROW RING PATTERN WAS TOLLERATED.
THERE IS NO ABSOLUTE THAT THIS LOG WILL YEILD GOOD STAVES UNTIL THE SPLITTING PROCESS IS STARTED.MANY TIMES YOU WILL START THE SPLIT EXPECTING TO REAP A FEW NICE OSAGE STAVES ONLY TO HAVE THE LOG PRODUCE A COUPLE OF NICE STAVES AND THE REST VERY TWISTED OR OF NO USE FOR BOW MAKING.THIS LOG HAD NO LIMBS TO THE 8 FOOT MARK AND THEN ONLY A SMALL DEAD ONE.
OSAGE ORANGE THAT IS STRAIGHT TO 10 FEET AND WITHOUT LIMBS IS NOT EASY TO FIND ESPECIALLY OVER 12 INCHES IN DIAMETER.WE SPLIT AS BIG AS LOG AS WE CAN FIND THAT MEETS OUR RIGID STANDARDS IN OSAGE SELECTION.THE BIGGER THE TREE THE FLATER THE GROWTH RING LAYERS BECOME IN MOST CASES.THEN YOU HOPE TO GET GOOD SPACING BETWEEN GROWTH RINGS.ALL OF OUR OSAGE STAVES ARE GRADED BY GROWTH RING PATTERNS,STRAIGHTNESS,AND LIMB KNOTS.
JAMES EASTER,BOWYER
DONNELLSON,IOWA 52625
319 835 5892
osagebow@iowatelecom.net
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Anyone who is interested in Achery should invest in a good Encyclopedia of Archery.I find that in some conversations there are many misconseptions thrown about and we all can use some upgrading at times to dispell these.The one I like is called “The Encyclopedia of Archery” by Paul Hougham
Catalog Card Number 57-9910 1958.Many of the below definitions here are from that book.
Belly of Bow: The belly of a bow is the side of the bow which is nearest to the archer while in the process of being shot, or the inside of the arc formed by the drawn bow. In case of a self bow the belly is a part of the stave itself; i.e., an actual portion of the one piece of stock from which the bow is fashioned. If the bow has an applied belly or facing (as the belly is often called), it may be one of the many listed under “Bow facings.”
Billets: Sections of a log which are either split or sawed from the log in a manner which will render a straight grain to the billet length. Billets are spliced or joined together within the handle section, either by a spliced joint or a steel take-down ferrule type handle. After billets are joined by one of these methods, a bow is then fashioned from the complete stave. Note: Billets should be and usually are taken from the same section of a log, side by side if possible, to insure uniform density and like appearance. It might be interesting to note that since the north side of a tree receives the least amount of sunshine, that side of the tree has the slowest growth and in turn produces the better bow wood, being of finer grain.
Bow Breakage: Many bows are broken every year by persons who assume that a bow can be drawn to any distance safely. This is not the true case in any sense of the word. One person may have longer arms than another or a person may be broader through the shoulders, either of which could mean a longer arrow.
Safe rules to follow are never handle another person’s bow unless allowed to do so and, even then, do not draw the bow until you are certain that your arrow length would be less than, or to say the least, not greater than the person to which the bow belongs.
Regardless of the bow weight and arrow length markings which may appear on a bow (usually below the handle, as 35 - 28, 50- 28, etc.), a person should think in terms of safety-first and apply the following rules of logic before drawing another person’s bow. For a bow which is five feet long, never draw it beyond the length of a 24” arrow; a bow five feet four inches, limit the arrow length to 26”; a bow five feet six inches, a 28” arrow; a five-foot, eight-inch bow, a 30” arrow, and not even to these distances unless you have permission to do so.A bow becomes “set” to a draw of a certain length arrow. Often is the case- when another one half inch added to this will be a catastrophe.
Bracing a bow: It should be stressed that a novice should never string a bow which does not belong to him without proper instruction and permission to do so from its owner.
There is only one sure way to know in which direction a bow is to be drawn and that is to the direction which will allow the bowstring loops to seat themselves into the fashioned nocks of the bow’s tip ends. The bow nocks are fashioned to allowthe string loop to go across the back side of the bow tip in a straight line from one side of the nock to the other and thence into the “V” shape, of the bow nock on the inside or belly of the bow. In the case of a recurved bow there is a continuation of the string nock in the shape of a channel which receives the string as it passes over the reversed curved tips. Caution: A bow braced and pulled backwards can brea immediately.
A novice will do well to first watch a person who knows the proper method of bracing a bow before attempting to do so himself.The following is the procedure of properly bracing a bow. If no one is handy for a demonstration, carefully follow this method.
(1)First stand with the feet spread 18 to 20 inches apart and nearly parallel to one another.
(2)Turn the back side of the bow towards you, holding the lower tip of the bow firmly against the instep of the right foot.
(3)Grasp the bow near to the upper end of the bow handle firmly with the right hand.
(4)Press downward on the bow’s upper limb slightly below the upper string loop with the base of the left hand.
(5)With the side of the index finger and the thumb of the left hand continue to move the string loop up the bow limb as continued pressure is exerted to the bending of the upper limb.
(6)Note: It is very important that the elbow of the right arm be held firmly against the rigbt hip. Do not allow the right forearm to follow the bow or the bow’s tip will get completely out of reach of the left hand.
(7)Do not take hold of the bow tip with the fingers which are moving the string up the bow limb as these must be free to slide the string ioop along the bow limb.
(8)Watch the nock of the bow carefully and move the string loop only far enough to push it entirely into the bow nock.
(9)Release the exerted pressure on the bow and the bow will then be braced and ready for use. Always examine the bow to make sure that the loops are completely into place in the nocks before drawing a bow.
Care of the Bow: Like a set of arrows a bow needs its proper amount of care. (1) One should always see to it that no one who is unfamiliar with archery equipment handles his bow. It is wise to assume that everyone is a novice in this respect until the person proves otherwise. (2) Keep a safe string on your bow at all times. By this, a safe string should be one of a proper number of strands for your bow and one which shows no abrasions or weak strands at any place. (3) Never draw a bow and allow the string to be freed without an arrow. (4) Store a bow in a cool place lying on, or hanging from pegs. (5) Do not stand a bow in a corner and allow it to remain there for any period of time. (6) Keep a bow well waxed at all times to preserve the finish and ward off scratches.
Cast of a Bow: Bow cast is the term used when referring to the speed which a bow will accelerate or propel an arrow by its force exerted through the medium of the bow string. The faster the acceleration of the bow’s limbs, the greater the speed will be of an arrow which leaves the bow, and the flatter the trajectory will be for an arrow shot from that bow.It must be remembered, however, that neither the pounds pull of a bow, nor its actual mass handling weight, nor the type of the bow entirely governs the speed or cast of a bow. A fast light drawing bow may outshoot a slow bow of greater mass or drawing weight. Both bows, of course, would be assumed to use the same arrows and to be shot in the same manner.
In relation to bow types as to cast, the recurved bow is definitely a faster bow than a straight limbed bow, both bows having the same drawing weight at full draw and all other specifications being equal. The uncurling or unbending of the curved tips of a recurved bow lends to a smooth drawing bow, white at the time of the string release these curved tips have another advantage. Immediately after the release the string comes into contact with the curved ends and the bow then has the thrust action of a short heavier bow and the string momentum increases; thus greater acceleration is transmitted to the arrow; hence greater speed and a flatter trajectory. With a straight limbed bow, the string leaves the hand at its maximum acceleration and never has an increase of speed.
Draw: To draw is to pull the bowstring as is necessary to shooting _ the bow and arrow. It is unwise to draw another person's bow without his consent to do so, and never without the proper length arrow for the bow. The draw is usually accomplished by drawing the bowstring with three fingers, one above the arrow and two below the arrow. The string is usually held at the first joint of the fingers or slightly nearer to the tips of the fingers for a smooth release of the string. The wrist of the string hand should be straight and in a manner which will align the back of the hand with the forearm.
Draw Length: A person’s draw length for the corner of the mouth (field draw), or the point of the chin (target draw), may be found by extending the arms and fingers completely “spread eagle” and take 38% of the total span measurement. Another method, not quite as satisfactory, is to hold a “yard stick” against the breast bone and extend both hands, fingers extended to full arm’s length along side of the yard stick. The reach is measured at the ends of the finger tips.
Flat Bellied: A bow which is flat bellied is one which does not have a crown shaped belly as was popular with the English long bow design. The composite laminated bows are practically all absolutely flat bellied with only very slightly rounded edges. A thin flat bow will not pyramid in drawing weight but a short stacked type bow has a noticeable build up to the draw.
Flat Bow: A flat bow is one with a back and belly which are virtually parallel to one another (such as a slat or lath). The short flat bow was a modification of the long bow which was brought about by the American Indians. The flat bow has many designs, each of which is to lessen the “stack” of the drawing weight, and to increase the cast or acceleration without danger of breakage. Many of the flat bow designs are extremely short with wide thin limbs. The fact that a bow is of flat design does not necessarily mean, however, that it is limited to a straight limbed bow, as this is not at all the case. A flat bow may be of any shape or design.
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